Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
